Tapping for inspiration in the bygone eras is a key in today’s fashion. Rochas Spring Summer 2017 collection was about colour and precision: influenced by the works of the photographers Erwin Blumenfeld and Cecil Beaton, Alessandro Dell’Acqua reimagines the silhouettes of the 1940s.
The primary colours: marigold, yellow, sky blue, mandarin, lilac, mauve rose and green are slightly dusted and not as pungent as their vivid counterparts – borrowed from the 40s and 50s Vogue America covers by Blumenfeld. The bold combinations of contrasting colours whether within a single garment or colourblocked ensemble of separates are unexpected yet statement-making moves.
The colour scheme of the collection transitions towards layering of soft powdery taupe, beige and desert bronze.
The precision side of Beaton’s black and white photography, is reflected through tailoring of the garments. Stripping the looks off decorations, it’s the craftsmanship that takes centre stage. Pleating and lose flounce add movement and extra volume without overpowering the silhouettes, while drapery and ruching elevates the designs of the bodices.
Era inspired elegant silhouettes are redefined in a modern setting. Alluring 40s lines and below the knee lengths are chic and sophisticated. Extra volume of flowy dresses and skirts is achieved by adding an underskirt in contrasting colours and fabrics playfully peeking from underneath the hemlines.
However nostalgic the looks may be, they are far from costumey. With a certain edge present, they have a strong attitude about them: from the uniform inspired utilitarian boxy shirts to sporty knit tops with brand’s initial, like an emblem, decorating the chest.
Monochrome tulle, lace and plumeti looks are evocative of boudoir with their sheer nature.
Florals are closing the lineup, whether printed on delicate chiffon or part of the luxurious handwoven jacquard and devoré velvet motif, they add opulence, transcending the boundaries of day and nightwear categories.
Statement making platform sandals with wooden soles and sling-back straps adorned with colourful ribbons and cut from the fabrics of the collection complete the looks in the most flattering of ways, thus punctuating the selection.
Rochas’ next season offering couldn’t be more fitting to the mood of spring. It’s bright and feminine, even whimsical and what’s more important – uplifting.
by Olga Permyakova
Photos: Courtesy of Rochas