When rules are set, some go ahead and follow them, while others question those established canons and look for the ways to overturn them. Creativity is what lies in the centre of those enterprises. Lutz Huelle Spring-Summer 2017 collection is a result of experimenting with paradoxes of fashion and finding artful solutions to accepted norms.
The first standout moment of the collection is the strong shapes and geometric cuts of the silhouettes. Huelle goes off the beaten track when designing his garments: in order to avoid using shoulder pads and padding in pursuit of natural sharpness of the shoulder line, he widens it instead and refolds it onto itself, thus achieving the aim of creating a small angular shoulder while at the same time adding extra volume to the pieces. The aforementioned volume is not a comical unwearable, bordering the line of belonging to a museum, result, it’s a well balanced addition to the silhouette of the look that doesn’t overpower the wearer.
Structural approach is also seen within the reinvention of 2004 spiral skirt design in the dresses of the current line up.
V neck cuts of the jackets enhance the elegant clean lines of the collection.
The second distinct point that defined the collection is the use of vivid colours and hybridization of materials. Bold blue, apricot orange, green and fuchsia pink galvanised otherwise standard set of essentials: crisp white of the cotton shirts, light blue shirt dresses, black and beige.
The result of the idea to reverse the purpose of the camouflage to disguise and make invisible was pairing the print with hot pink cotton crepe piping or colour block fusion.
Lutz Huelle manages to also elevate the otherwise casual denim with dramatic colour inserts, leading to the update of the original model – jackets are transformed into summer dresses with addition of fluid crepe and lavish black floral lace.
The collaboration with Robert Clergerie lands a selection of boots and pumps of the same fabrics as the pants of the collection intended to elongate the silhouette and solve the issue of deciding on footwear for the outfit.
by Olga Permyakova
Photos: Courtesy of Lutz Huelle