Special Report: Trussardi SS17

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Just when you expect the music to kick off and the models to start walking down the runway, showcasing the latest collection, Trussardi steps away from the established approach and breaks the tradition. Italian actor Adriano Giannini is the first to take the runway/stage performing a theatre piece, followed by three different melodies personally composed by Trussardi’s creative director Gaia Trussardi.

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The conventional runway show is transformed into a theatrical act, performance of sorts, culminating with what everyone is gathered for – a catwalk presentation of Trussardi’s Spring Summer 2017 line.

The “Elegantly Pop” concept of the collection is a depiction of “paradox and hybridisation, the security of tradition and the absurdities of modern life”. It’s a brave experimentation with mixing the brand’s long established traditions with contemporary influences and approach to fashion.010_trussardi-womens-ss17-show-3000

The line-up is a bold fusion of on one hand: sophistication of Italian style with soft colour palette inspired by the minimalism of the late 70s and borrowed-from-the-boys tailoring, while on the other – vivid colour scheme of the 80s spiced up with futuristic metallic sheen of laminated denim, mirrored sunglasses, shoes, bags and chokers, exclusively created by Maria Vittoria Paolillo.

Leather received a bold update in intense red and pink hues of the biker jacket, thigh slit midi and high waist pants; a luxe multicoloured metallic python patchwork overalls juxtaposed with a supple sand tone suede variant.

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A range of suede designs in a soft muted colour spectrum included wrap dresses and separates decorated with fringe detailing, colour-block patchwork and contrasting inserts of metallic python leather ribbons or blended with knitwear.     

Female form is accentuated with lurex sheath dresses, close-cut wrap skirts and exaggerated peplum detailing, while the influences of Baz Luhrmann’s cinematography are felt through the romantic vibe of the the styling of slouchy cardigans with midi dresses.

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Trussardi name creatively featured in a number of ways as a variety of graphic prints makes a case for a subtle approach to modern logomania.

The Spring-Summer 2017 collection is Gaia Trussardi’s call for unity despite all the cultural differences as a result of post-modern age and she starts this dialog through what she knows best – fashion.

by Olga Permyakova

Photos: Courtesy of Trussardi

 


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