We are well into Paris Fashion Week, and what’s more appropriate than starting it off with a designer whose idea for the collection came from France itself. Cédric Charlier drew inspiration from old photographs of Breton sailors for his eponymous brand’s Fall Winter 2016 Collection.
Charlier’s woman is a “girl from the seaside embarking on an urban lifestyle”. Her windswept hair with charming flyaways creates a sense of walk along the seashore, while the fresh, barely there makeup only highlights the natural beauty and her youth.
The nautical theme of the collection is redefined by the designer, who puts his own spin on the traditional maritime garments: clean cut outerwear included neat cropped wool-felt boxy peacoats with vinyl piqué piping and shearling numbers in Oxford blue, raincoat finished in bright yellow vinyl had a certain futuristic feel about it, while structured woollen cabans featured an expected abundance of buttons had special accents – contrasting collars.
A playful puzzle-like arrangement of the way the clothes fastened was a rather jaunty designer solution.
It wouldn’t be a truly sailor influenced collection without those wide-cut masculine trousers and legendary breton stripes. Cédric Charlier offers his spin on tradition: the trousers come in shining glitter and mid-rise cuffed navy, brilliant white and vivid yellow in heavy cotton.
The stripe theme starts with an original placement of colour pop vertical lines along the inseam of the trousers, making it’s way onto lustrous lurex knit dresses, pants and turtleneck sweaters.
Still the piece that was closest to the original, made legendary by the iconic Coco Chanel, marinière, was the contemporary version in tunic / mini dress style with black faux leather front and horizontal red stripes.
Streamlined designs and pared back looks perfect for mix and match are made to add a touch of the “sea” to a city-dweller’s wardrobe.
by Olga Permyakova
Photos: Courtesy of Cédric Charlier